Choosing the pump
We look at the pit size, how often the pump runs and how far it lifts water. A submersible pump with a vertical float suits most pits.
- We avoid undersized pumps that run constantly and wear out.
- A second, battery-driven pump with its own outlet carries on when a thunderstorm knocks the hydro out.
Signs this is the job you need
- Pump older than seven to ten years
- Pump running constantly in dry weather
- Loud clunk when the pump shuts off
- Water close to the top of the pit
- No backup pump and frequent power outages
Talk it through with a plumber
One call to (365) 364-2776 reaches someone who can tell you what the job involves and when a van can be at the door.
How the work goes
- We check the pit, inlet and discharge route.
- We remove the old pump and clean the pit.
- We install the new pump and check valve.
- We add a backup pump if wanted.
- We test with a full pail of water.
The install
We lift out the old pump, shovel the sludge and stones out of the crock, stand the new pump on a brick or plate so its intake stays above the silt, and connect new ABS or PVC discharge pipe fitted with a check valve that keeps the column of water from dropping back. The discharge runs outside to a splash pad far enough from the foundation. Then we flood the crock with a hose and time a full pump-out.
Asked on the phone line
Do I need a battery backup?
If you have had outages during storms, it is worth considering.
Where should the water go?
Away from the foundation, onto your own lawn, not into the sanitary sewer.
How a call to us runs
- You ring (365) 364-2776 and a person picks up, not a menu.
- We ask where the water is, what you have already shut off and what decade the building went up in.
- We say when the van should pull up and what to do until it does.
- On site we show you the fault, give a firm price before starting and clean up after.
Phone booking keeps things quick: no forms, no portals, no follow-up emails trying to sell you a maintenance plan.